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Dogwood Canyon Orvis Fly Fishing Schools

Online Handbook

Section 1 – Lines, Rods and Reels

A. Fly Lines

Fly Line Tapers:

L – Level

WF – Weight Forward

DT – Double Taper 

Level Line:

1. Same Diameter/Equal weight
2. Economical
3. Poor Presentation
4. No casting assistance
5. Hinders accuracy
6. Limits backing

Weight Forward Line:

1. One fishable taper
2. Delicate presentation
3. Distance specialist
4. Roll casts to 30 feet
5. Permits adequate backing

Double Taper Line:

1. Two fishable tapers
2. Delicate Presentation
3. Comfortable at 30 feet
4. Roll cast beyond 30 feet
5. Limits backing

Fly Line Size:

Chart 1 above relates line size to fly size to species which in turn relates to rod size.  The number designation of each weight shown in the vertical column corresponds to the weight in grains (437.5 grains = 1 once) of the first thirty (30) feet of line.  This system was adopted by the American Fishing Tackle Manufacturers Association in 1961, and is used throughout the world by all fly-line manufacturers.  This weight may range from 100 grains for a 3-weight line to 380 grains for a 12 weight line.

Fly Line Color: 

Fly-Line color is a minor consideration but it must be accepted that fish do perceive color.  Sinking lines are generally recommended to be darker in color and floating lines should brightly colored to give visibility.  As skill improves the need for bright colored line will be replaced by the need for more stealth.Fly Line Types:

F – Floating

I - Intermediate

F/S – Sinking Tip

S – Sinking

Every good quality fly line will have a code marked on the box to show its Taper, Size and Type.  For example:  WF5F can be interpreted as (WF) Weight Forward (5) 5 weight (F) Floating.

Backing Line

Backing line is attached to the reel end of the fly line to provide the ability to fight a fish that makes a longer run.  It would be impossible to store more than 90 feet of fly line on a reel and unnecessary because the maximum distance usually cast is no more that 70 feet.

Backing is manufactured from Dacron which provides great strength without stretch.  It is manufactured in various breaking strengths and normal size for trout/bass fishing is 20 pounds breaking strength.  A length of between 100 and 200 yards is added depending on species and reel size.

Section 1 Part 1 – Lines, Rods and Reels 

B. Rods

Above is a generic Fly rod and this basic design will be found in all size rods.  Refer to Chart 1 for sizes of line which relates to the rod size, i.e. a 5 weight rod is designed to cast 5 weight lines.

Fly Rod Materials:

Fly rod materials range from Bamboo to Graphite.  Bamboo rods are very slow in action, heavy and expensive to make.  Glass Fiber rods are still available; they are heavy, rugged and inexpensive.  Graphite is a space age material giving strength, stiffness and efficiency at reasonable cost.  New comers to fly-fishing should avoid Bamboo and consider Graphite as the material of choice.

Fly Rod Lengths:

Rod lengths vary between 6 to 15 feet with the choice of length depending on the fishing situation and species being targeted.  Standard lengths for trout and bass rods run from 7½ to 9 feet with a line size/weight between 4 and 7.  The choice of length depends on many individual factors; species targeted, available casting room and personal preference.  A first fly rod would probably be between 8 ½ and 9 feet and a 5 weight for only trout or 6 weight for trout and small bass.

Fly-Rod Action:

Fly rods can be purchased in different “actions” from slow through medium to fast.  Bamboo is the slowest and Graphite can provide a faster action.  New comers should not consider slow action and choosing a fast action may seem like a good initial choice, but a good medium action is recommended for the first your first rod.

C. Reels

A fly reel’s purpose is to store line, provide smooth, uninterrupted tension (drag) when a fish makes a long run, and counterbalance the weight of the fly rod when casting.  In general as the size and tenacity of the fish being targeted increases, so does the importance of the reel.

Fly reels are simple devices and even the most complicated has fewer moving parts than a spinning reel.

Reels for fly fishing are offered in three types of retrieve; single action, multiplying and automatic.  Because the reel is not used to retrieve line after every cast, this aspect is not as important to the fly-fisherman as it is to the spin caster.

In general, when choosing a fly reel the choice of action should be “single” and the reel should have a smooth drag system.  The reel should match the rod/line size to provide the correct balance.  The reel should be manufactured from a material giving good resistance to corrosion particularly if it is to be used for salt water fishing.

Section 1 Part 2 – Leaders, Tippets, Weights and Indicators

A. Leaders

The leader is not only as important as the rod, reel and line, but at times more important than the correct fly pattern.  Leaders are devices for deception as well as presentation.  They deceive by being transparent, and even more by their flexibility.

All modern leaders are made from Nylon or monofilament which is strong for its diameter, flexible and provides some measure of “stretch”.

Leaders should be long enough to fool fish, thin enough to fool fish, but strong enough to catch them.

Early leaders were constructed from multiple lengths of differing size monofilament added together to provide a tapering shape.  This tapering of a leader provides “turn-over” when casting a fly.  A loop is formed when casting and this process finally “turns-over” the fly into a gentle presentation.

Modern leaders are manufactured to provide this tapered shape and are referred to as “tapered knotless leaders”.  They are available in lengths of between 7 ½ to 14 feet and beyond, with the choice being determined by stream conditions.  The advantages of knotless leaders are that they are manufactured with a taper and are more resistant to collecting weed.  Knotted leaders have to be built individually, are not so resistant to collecting weed, but straighten better.

Leaders are described by their length and “Tippet” size, with a system that assigns an “X” number to its specific diameter.  The system, which is universal regardless of manufacturer, is as follows: 

Thus a nine-foot leader with a “tippet” of .007-inch will be called a “9 foot 4X leader”.

To cast a fly well and to have it behave naturally in or on the current, a fly should be matched to the appropriate diameter leader/tippet.  The chart above also gives suggestions on balancing tippet to fly.  Stream conditions, the type of fish, stiffness and breaking strength of the tippet material will also influence choice.

It is recommended that a minimum length of 9 feet is used for leaders with a selection of 4X, 5X, 6X being carried for most conditions.

B. Tippets:

The Tippet is the most important tool for deception in a fly-fisherman’s bag of tricks.  A difference of 0.001-inch diameter in the tippet will make a marked difference in success when trout fishing.

The Tippet is the last few feet of leader which is of parallel diameter and determines the breaking strength of the leader.

As the tippet shortens with each fly change, the delicacy of presentation decreases and therefore tippet material of corresponding diameter should be carried on spools to “refresh” the leader.  It is recommended that a selection of 4X, 5X, 6X be carried for most conditions and to match leaders.

It is acceptable to add tippet of one size smaller to a leader, i.e. 6X Tippet added to 5X leader although this change in diameter should not exceed 0.002 inch.  This allows you to both lengthen a leader and decrease visibility to fish.

Care of Tippets and Leaders

Tippets are the weakest point in your fishing system, so you want to pay particular attention to keeping them in good shape.  Here are a few tips on avoiding damage to your tippets:

C. Knots

There are numerous knots out there and some folks have their own personal favorite but it may not be yours.  A knot should be simple to tie, be close to the breaking strain of the leader/tippet and not come undone during use.

In general the following knots are recommended:

    1.  Backing line to Fly Reel Spool - Arbor knot

    2.  Backing line to Fly line - Albright knot

    3.  Leader to Fly line - Loop to loop connecting using a Braided Loop connector on the end of the fly line

    4.  Loop connection on end of Leader - Perfection loop

    5. Leader to Tippet material - Surgeon's knot or Blood knot

    6. Leader/Tippet to fly - Clinch knot, Improved Clinch knot, Orvis knot etc.

Follow this link to Orvis's animated knot tie site: http://orvis.com/orvis_assets/files/index.html

D. Weights:

To achieve depth it is necessary to add weight to a leader or tippet.  This is achieved by attaching split shot of either lead or more preferably tin which is non-toxic to wild life.  Putty like materials are also available and can be rolled onto the leader instead of attaching shot.  Weight can also be provided in the build of the fly in the form of an under body wrap of lead/tin wire or a brass bead head.

Split shot should be added approximately 18 inches up from the fly and the amount adjusted to provide the correct depth.

E. Strike Indicators:

To adjust the depth of a sub-surface fly and to detect a “take” it is recommended that a strike indicator be attached to the leader.  The correct depth setting is generally accepted to be 1½-2 times the depth of the water being fished.  This increased depth setting will help alleviate “drag” and improve strikes.

Strike indicators can be foam that’s is either twisted or stuck onto the leader or buoyant paste which can be rolled onto the leader.

Section 2 Part 1 – Entomology, selecting, choosing and fishing flies 

1. Fly Selection

 When choosing flies there are some simple rules to follow: 

1. Imitate Food:

a)     Approximate Size

b)     Suggestive Shape

c)     Similar Color Scheme

d)     Appropriate Behavior 

Follow the above rule in the order shown for most effective fishing. 

2. Attract Attention:

a)     Odd Size/Shape

b)     Abnormal Behavior

c)     Bright Colors 

Attract attention by stimulating aggressive behavior through curiosity, provocation, or territorial dominance. 

3. Basic Fly Types:

a)     Dry – Floats

b)     Nymph – Sinks

c)     Streamer – Sinks 

There is never a right or wrong fly, only flies that work better under certain circumstances than others.

You should approach fly selection as a challenge rather than a chore.  Finding the right fly through experimentation is one of the great satisfactions of fly-fishing.  Remember the worst you can do is not catch any fish! 

Matching the Hatch - This expression relates to the situation where you are attempting to imitate a natural insect that the fish are feeding on.

Size, Shape and Color is the first thing to consider if you intend to “match the hatch”.  You may be lucky enough to encounter this situation on occasions.  All you have to do is catch one these insects, examine it and compare it to the flies in your box.

However, there will be many occasions when you are on the stream and there are no insects.  How do you decide what fly to tie onto your line when there are no natural insects flying over the water.  Locating the natural can be as simple as looking in a spider web or under a rock in the stream.  If you find an insect near or in the water where you intend to fish, it is very probable that the fish will have fed on that species of insect at some time.  All you are doing is offering something that is in the fish’s memory which it considers as food. 

2. Fishing your flies

Once you have selected the correct artificial you have to consider how the natural insect behaves and make your artificial behave in the same way.  If an insect crawls slowly across the bottom it is no use stripping your fly fast through the water because this is not what the fish expects.

Originally when fly-fishing first started, the only “fly” available to the fisherman was a “wet” fly.  Over time fishermen experimented and found that fish would take their wet flies when they hit the surface and the “dry” fly was born.  Further study showed that immature aquatic flying insects would spend much of their life on the bottom of a stream and the “nymph” was added to the fisherman’s list.  Finally it was found that game fish eat smaller versions of them selves and the “streamer” fly was born.

These days the fly fisherman has a vast selection of artificial versions of these fly types and it becomes difficult to decide what to use.  You should go back to the basic premise of Size, Shape and Color to make your decision.

Each of the fly types is fished in a different way and simply observing the other inhabitants of a trout steam will give you the answer.  How does the Caddis fly leave the water after emerging, how fast does a crayfish move and just how does a grasshopper land on the water after making its fatal jump.

Remember that you don’t have to be an entomologist to be a good fly fisherman, but it helps!

Freestone Stream Strategy Tips 

Water Temperature:

Recommended basic fly selection

Below is a selection of essential flies that any fly fisherman should carry: 

Traditional Dry Flies

Adams #12 - #18

Light Cahill #14 - #20

Blue Winged Olive #14 - #20

Elk Hair Caddis (olive-tan) #12 - #16

Attractor Flies

Yellow Humpy #14 - #18 

Stone Flies

Stimulator (orange-yellow) #8 - #14

Midge

Griffiths Gnat #20

Terrestrials

Grasshopper #12

Black Ant #12 - #20 

Nymphs

Hare’s ear (natural-olive-black) #12 - #16

Pheasant Tail Nymph #12 - #16

Prince Nymph #12 - #16 

Scud/Sow Bug

Scud (orange-tan-black) #12 - #16

Sow Bug (grey) #12 - #16 

Streamers

Muddler Minnow #6 - #12

Bead Head Woolly Bugger (olive-black-brown) #4 - #10

Woolly Bugger (olive-black-brown) #4 - #10 

Soft Hackle

Soft Hackle (olive-tan-brown) #16 - #20 

Section 2 Part 2 – Handling, releasing and photographing fish 

1. Handling and releasing

Catch and Release has become an integral part of fly-fishing and is practiced by the vast majority of fishermen.  The well known fly fishing writer Lee Wulff said “Game fish are too valuable to be only caught once”.

If you intend to release a fish after catching it you should practice good handling techniques.  Trout in particular are susceptible to an early demise if handled badly and you should follow these simple rules: 

1. Fish with Barbless hooks or de-barb your regular hooks.
2. Don’t play the fish too long.  Use the strongest leader that allows you to fool the fish.
3. Use a net with a “catch and release” bag to cradle the fish.
4. Don’t handle the fish excessively.  Removal of the trout’s protective “slime” will make it vulnerable to disease.
5. Don’t try to remove a hook that has been swallowed, it’s better to cut the line short and release the fish.  Hooks will disintegrate eventually and be ejected.
6. Don’t drop the fish.
7. Allow the fish to recover before letting it swim away if it has been played for a long time.  This is done by holding the fish facing into the stream flow, don’t move it back and forward.

Taking home a memory in the form of a photograph is a great way to capture the fun you had fishing.  When photographing fish remember the rules we listed above and try to avoid excessive stress on your subject.  Follow the guidelines below for better results: 

1. Laying the fish in a net that is placed in shallow water will give good perspective and reduce stress.
2. Leave the fly attached to the fish while taking the picture.  This gives you a memory of the fly that caught it and is useful if the fish escapes before the picture is complete.
3. Take measurements of the fish, i.e. length and girth for use later if a mount is commissioned.

Section 2 Part 3 – Equipment and Accessories 

Below is a recommended list of equipment for the beginner fly fisherman.  This list is by no means exhaustive and should be used as a guide for the minimum requirements: 

a)     Assortment of three to ten dozen flies

b)     Fly floatant

c)     Leader assortment – 9 foot 3x,4x,5x,6x

d)     Tippet material – 3x,4x,5x,6x

e)     Stream thermometer

f)      Snips on a zinger

g)     Surgical forceps

h)     Leader straightener

i)      Insect repellent and sun screen

j)      Mini “lead-heads” or non-toxic split shot

k)     Strike indicators

l)      Pocket size flash light

m)   Landing net

n)     Drink container and holder

o)     Disposable camera 

Section 2 Part 4 – Wading Safety 

Wading is a necessary part of fly fishing and can be most enjoyable if performed safely.  It should always be considered that wading has the potential to cause drowning and the following guidelines should be followed: 

1. Always use a wader belt
2. Wade downstream in preference to upstream when crossing a stream
3. Don’t wade beyond waist depth
4. Take short strides
5. Consider the use of a wading staff
6. Remain calm if you fall, float with your feet facing downstream until you reach a suitable take out point.
7. Remember wading in shallow water is potentially more dangerous than deep water.  Spills will land you on hard ground or sharp rocks and may cause bruises or even broken bones.

Section 2 Part 5 – Fishing opportunities 

Fly fishing can be practiced in just about all waters; rivers, streams, lakes and the sea.  Virtually every species of fish can be targeted by the fly fisherman.  Remember to spend time targeting fish you can catch as you progress in your learning of the sport; Bluegill on a fly rod can be a blast.

Also remember that trout don’t live in ugly places and that the “being there” is all part of it. 

Finally a request from the author:  

Monofilament line has a life measured in the Millions of years!  Please remember this and don’t discard used leaders and tippet material carelessly because it has a dire effect on wildlife.  Put used material in you vest pocket and when you return home cut it into short 6inch lengths before placing in the trash or recycle bin – thank you.

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